jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
can you advise how to use the coil test mode? It definitely seems to be trying to fire at the wrong time. I'll see if I can source a regular timing light.
Tune changes for IGN-1A coils?
- Thread starter jpwalt1987
- Start date
You will need to take out a plug, attach it to the spark wire, then position the plug somewhere where the body of the plug will be grounded. Make sure there is no fuel around for safety.
Here is a pic of the spark test page. I circled the important stuff. Choose which coil to test, do one at a time to check if wiring is correct.
When you press the 'start' button, you should see the spark.
Here is a pic of the spark test page. I circled the important stuff. Choose which coil to test, do one at a time to check if wiring is correct.
When you press the 'start' button, you should see the spark.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
I found the Coil/Injector test mode. #6 is indeed a dead hole. It is either in the wiring or the ECU. Swapping coil harness wires from Coil #4 to Coil #6 made Coil #6 fire.
you could also leave the plugs and wires installed and use the timing light to detect spark. You won't be able to see how strong the spark is though.
since cylinder 1 is firing ~120 degrees off, I'm thinking the cam sensor is 25 degrees ATDC of the wrong cylinder....
since cylinder 1 is firing ~120 degrees off, I'm thinking the cam sensor is 25 degrees ATDC of the wrong cylinder....
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
Got it. #6 is dead. Going to retrace wiring on this circuit. Trying to source a regular timing light.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
I had originally had it set at 25* ATDC of cylinder #1 as I've been doing for the last 25 years. However, that produced an issue with the CCV angle. Eric said it should be closer to 85 and mine was about 20. I made a cam sensor adjustment to get it to 85 even though that is quite a ways from the original 25*ATDC setting. There's talk of this earlier in the thread.
the vvt stuff is somewhat slow to calculate, so during cranking I'm not sure what it will read. (never tried it myself).
But. the composite log looks right, but there is no way to know if its "right" but on the wrong cylinder.
So. I think we need to go back and set it the standard way, and recheck the cranking spark with the timing light
Bob
But. the composite log looks right, but there is no way to know if its "right" but on the wrong cylinder.
So. I think we need to go back and set it the standard way, and recheck the cranking spark with the timing light
Bob
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
Bob,
I reset the cam sensor to 25* ATDC and bought a regular non-dialback timing light. The results are puzzling as seen in the picture (new timing results in parenthesis). I had cylinders #2 and #4 firing at two different times. All the plugs and plug wires were attached etc. during these tests. The pictures showing the balancer are during the same cranking cycle. I checked the wiring for coil #6 as well and I cannot find anything wrong with it on the (I used yellow wire) trigger wire from the coil connector to the PCB pin inside the ECU. I am at a loss at this point........
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jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
Eric,
Since there is no output for the coil to Cylinder #6 and the pin for Spark A (cylinder #6) has continuity from the PCB pin all the way to the connector at the coil, do you think its possible to have a defective driver for that specific circuit? Would hooking an oscilloscope to the coil signal wire help in diagnosing? I have a friend that most likely has one I can use. I don't understand what would cause a couple of the cylinders to fire twice, 120* apart instead of at the same angle on every other revolution. Should I send the ECU in for testing/inspection?
Since there is no output for the coil to Cylinder #6 and the pin for Spark A (cylinder #6) has continuity from the PCB pin all the way to the connector at the coil, do you think its possible to have a defective driver for that specific circuit? Would hooking an oscilloscope to the coil signal wire help in diagnosing? I have a friend that most likely has one I can use. I don't understand what would cause a couple of the cylinders to fire twice, 120* apart instead of at the same angle on every other revolution. Should I send the ECU in for testing/inspection?
the spark outputs are protected outputs. I don't think its likely it failed. But it is a possibility.
A scope will assist the troubleshooting.
Were you running this balancer before you changed everything?
The test mode will help troubleshoot also. You can run the output with the coils unplugged and look for pulses/voltage at the trigger wire.
How did you run the grounds and power to those coils?
Bob
A scope will assist the troubleshooting.
Were you running this balancer before you changed everything?
The test mode will help troubleshoot also. You can run the output with the coils unplugged and look for pulses/voltage at the trigger wire.
How did you run the grounds and power to those coils?
Bob
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
I followed the instructions to a T for the wiring. The power comes from a Leash electronics relay module. This is the same balancer as before.
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jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
Terminals A and B are not connected. I followed Eric's instructions on the Spark C jumpers.
This is odd. almost like the trigger signals are connected between 2 channels. or 1 coil is triggering another one. Where is the signal ground connected (a coil pin B's)? do all the coils/cylinders do this? Perhaps the timing light is too sensitive and is being false triggered by a nearby coil.
The coils prefer their "cylinder head ground" to be the head with the plug they are sparking, although I'm sure they would work with 1 ground point. When I wire these types of coils I use an engine ground for the primary power ground (coil pin D's)
For the next tests (test mode and cranking), unplug the harness from all coils except #1,
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
A few observations this morning.....
Wires B4 (CCCI Terminal A) and D5 (CCCI Terminal B) to the ECU header connector are removed so there was no chance of them being connected to anything. Running the coil test mode while the connectors to the coils are unplugged showed an anomaly. Using a noid light between the coil 12V power terminal and the ECU signal wire shows a difference on cylinders #1-5 vs. #6. The noid light does not illuminate across those terminals on cylinders 1-5. It DOES illuminate on cylinder #6. I checked it all the way back to the PCB pins with the same results. It seems that the coil driver for #6 is grounded. The Spark A LED light on the bottom of the ecu blinks when following that process.
Wires B4 (CCCI Terminal A) and D5 (CCCI Terminal B) to the ECU header connector are removed so there was no chance of them being connected to anything. Running the coil test mode while the connectors to the coils are unplugged showed an anomaly. Using a noid light between the coil 12V power terminal and the ECU signal wire shows a difference on cylinders #1-5 vs. #6. The noid light does not illuminate across those terminals on cylinders 1-5. It DOES illuminate on cylinder #6. I checked it all the way back to the PCB pins with the same results. It seems that the coil driver for #6 is grounded. The Spark A LED light on the bottom of the ecu blinks when following that process.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
A couple of pictures. I couldn't load the video.
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jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
The signal ground (coil pin B) goes to pin 13 on the 22 pin connector. Coil pin C goes to the respective cylinder head, coil pin D goes to a ground buss bar that connects to the battery.
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jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
Same results.
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