Tune changes for IGN-1A coils?

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Eric,

I finally got everything wired up for my IGN-1A coils. My wiring is 100% correct. Jumpers have been switched according to the instructions. Cam and Crank jumpers are pulled up, EGR Spark C jumper is pulled up as well. Do I need to go into Programmable ON/OFF outputs 1 and enable Spark C there? Where does the brown wire D9 from the ECU go to? I found an instruction sheet for Stock Ignition Spark Settings but nothing for IGN-1a/COP coils. The ECU was originally set up for and did run using a stock module and coil. Any help is appreciated.
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Added pics.
 

Attachments

  • 20231114_203326.jpg
    20231114_203326.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 48
  • 20231114_203341.jpg
    20231114_203341.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 54
  • 20231114_203350.jpg
    20231114_203350.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 50
  • 20231114_203424.jpg
    20231114_203424.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 60

EricM

Administrator
Staff member
See attach instructions when using the plug and play COP harness. It should apply to yours also. Do not enable the spark-C EGR jumper, as you are not using the EGR plug for spark. Leave that on AIN-1, so it can be used as an analog input (which is connected to D9).
 

Attachments

  • 4003 4004 CNP harness Install.pdf
    599.4 KB · Views: 50

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Eric,

I made the changes as outlined in the instructions you provided. I also double checked all my wiring back to the ECU connectors. Everything checked out perfect. Injector wiring terminated to the correct pins at the header connector, Coil triggers terminated to the correct pins on the green 22 pin connector. Cam and crank wires going to the correct place as well. I removed the jumper that was on Spark C as well. I also verified the cam sensor positioning. I had it 180* out but it is now corrected and set with a DVOM per the instructions on VORTEX Buicks website.
The spark plugs get soaked with E85 as soon as i try to start the engine. I have pulled them out and cleaned/dried them several times. I have gone into clear flood mode while cranking and slowly released the accelerator in an effort for air flow to meet fuel available. The engine sounds like it was trying to hydraulic. Before i made all these changes it would backfire out the exhaust. As a final effort to get it to fire off, I reduced cranking fuel by a lot. No success. Would you be able to take a look at the tune and see what I am missing? I have verified spark and injector pulse. On the MALF-Extra page i do have the "RPM Not Synced" tab highlighted in Red.

Thanks!!

Jeremy
 

Attachments

  • CurrentTune.msq
    286.2 KB · Views: 34
  • Coil and Module Wiring.jpg
    Coil and Module Wiring.jpg
    77.2 KB · Views: 42
  • Wiring instructions from Bob Bailey.jpg
    Wiring instructions from Bob Bailey.jpg
    134.1 KB · Views: 45
  • coil pinout.jpg
    coil pinout.jpg
    120.5 KB · Views: 40
  • IGN-1A Checklist.jpg
    IGN-1A Checklist.jpg
    100.2 KB · Views: 49
Last edited:

EricM

Administrator
Staff member
What injectors?
Did you change injectors since the last time it ran successfully?
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Bosch 210s. No changes in injectors. Same as when it ran last. I also verified that they are not leaking fuel when the pump energizes.
 

EricM

Administrator
Staff member
I normally use a different dead time for the 210's (about .520ms), but if you had it tuned successfully before, then that shouldn't change.

The dash will show 'not synced' when it's not running or cranking. It should change to synced after cranking for a second or two. If it's not synced, you won't get fuel or spark.

You could try taking a log of you cranking for a few seconds. Go to the Communications menu, then Data Rate, and change it to 100 reads per seconds before you take the log, just to make sure we're catching everything.
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
I normally use a different dead time for the 210's (about .520ms), but if you had it tuned successfully before, then that shouldn't change.

The dash will show 'not synced' when it's not running or cranking. It should change to synced after cranking for a second or two. If it's not synced, you won't get fuel or spark.

You could try taking a log of you cranking for a few seconds. Go to the Communications menu, then Data Rate, and change it to 100 reads per seconds before you take the log, just to make sure we're catching everything.
I wound up with Dead Time settings based on this thread from a couple of years ago. Setting injector dead time | TurboTweak Support Forum
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
I have attempted to record a log while cranking. I'm not sure if I did it correctly.
 

Attachments

  • 2023-11-15_18.23.06.mlg
    223.3 KB · Views: 35

EricM

Administrator
Staff member
In your log, while cranking, I can see that the cam sync angle (shown as 'VVT angle 1' in the log) is about 20 degrees. It should be about 85 degrees.

Try turning the cam sensor counter-clockwise roughly 45 degrees, and do the same test again, to see if its closer.
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
I made the adjustments and got the VVT angle 1 to read 85 by adjusting the cam sensor. Still sounds like its trying to hydraulic the motor. I did most the cranking when adjusting the cam sensor with the injectors disabled as to not put any more fuel into the cylinders. Once I put the injector fuse back in it cranked like it was hydraulicing.
 

Attachments

  • 2023-11-15_19.58.37.mlg
    94.1 KB · Views: 21

TurboBob

Well-Known Member
ok, if it seems to be overfueling, lets verify all the other stuff. unplug the injectors for now.

if the coils are all wired and configured correctly, then they can be tested individually using the test modes. Coil A is cylinder 6 , B is 5 ... Coil F is cylinder 1

Then do some cranking timing tests with a timing light and make sure the cranking timing seems right.

Then spray some carb cleaner / starting fluid into the intake and see if it will fire that. (while logging...)

Bob
 

TurboBob

Well-Known Member
your RPM is jumping around a lot when cranking, once we get the fuel out of the equation, the cranking RPM should be steady, lets watch for that. Have you ever recorded a composite log? It would be interesting to see what it shows.
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Bob,

I just did a composite log for checking crank and cam signal. I hope it attaches properly here. I'll also attach a screen shot. This reading is with injectors disabled and the sparkplugs out of the heads.
1700159792484.png
 

Attachments

  • 2023-11-16_12.30.35.csv
    10.2 KB · Views: 21

TurboBob

Well-Known Member
that looks pretty good, try it with the plugs in. in log-cam-and-crank mode the ecu will not trigger spark or injectors, (be sure to cycle the key when changing stuff in the ignition decoder)
 

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
I just checked the firing with a timing light. Seems weird. I do have a wiring or pin tension issue with #6. This is being read off of an ATI balancer with an old MAC timing light set on zero. I did disable the injectors and spray some carb cleaner in it. Same bogging/hydraulicing sound. Seems like it's firing at the wrong time especially seeing that cylinder #1 is firing at 122*. Should be more like 10-20* BTDC right?
 

Attachments

  • 20231116_130339.jpg
    20231116_130339.jpg
    5.7 MB · Views: 28
  • 20231116_130655.jpg
    20231116_130655.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 23

jpwalt1987

Well-Known Member
Cam and Crank signal test with plugs installed, injectors disabled.
 

Attachments

  • 2023-11-16_13.14.38.csv
    20 KB · Views: 20

TurboBob

Well-Known Member
your cranking spark is 0 in your tune, dialback lights are not dependable especially when cranking. perhaps use the test mode to make sure all the coils are working right
 
Top